My mum used to make a really good blue cheese dressing. I remember her serving it with cool, crisp salad leaves and bowls of warm, crunchy croutons. She was an intuitive cook, so I can’t imagine she would have written down her recipe, which means I get to. It’s not difficult to go back to that kitchen. She’s there, setting bowls and plates down on the table. I can taste the dressing, I can feel the texture. I’m opening my eyes now and typing it out.
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 large or 2 smaller lettuce, such as butterhead, cos or little gem
1 head of tender, green, summer celery
A small handful of chives, thinly sliced
A handful or two of pumpkin seeds or walnut halves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
150g (5½oz) your favorite soft blue cheese
½ small garlic clove, finely grated
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons runny honey, plus extra to taste
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, plus extra to taste
2 tablespoons crème fraiche
2 tablespoons nice mayonnaise
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Method
Start by making the dressing. Crumble the cheese into a large, flat-bottomed bowl. Add the garlic, mustard, honey and vinegar and season with some black pepper. Use the back of a fork to mash the cheese and mustard together to form a coarse paste. You don’t have to get rid of all the lumps. Now work in the crème fraiche and mayonnaise. Stir in the extra-virgin olive oil and have a taste. It might not need salt, but it might. Adjust the sweetness and acidity with a touch more honey or vinegar.
Cut the base from each lettuce and separate the leaves. Wash them in very cold water and spin dry. If you don’t have a salad spinner, let them drain in a colander, turning them gently every 10–15 minutes.
Trim the base from the celery. Separate the stems and give them a rinse. Slice the celery stems into 1–2cm (½in) pieces at a slight angle.
Tear the salad leaves into a large bowl. Add the celery and spoon over half the dressing. Use your hands (or a pair of salad spoons) to turn the leaves and celery through the dressing. Scatter half the chives over the salad. They should stick to the dressed leaves, which is what you want. Arrange the salad over a large platter. Sprinkle the pumpkins seeds or crumble the walnut halves over the top and spoon over the remaining dressing. Scatter with the remaining chives and season lightly with more black pepper and a good pinch of sea salt. Serve at once.
